Review on Val Garland's 'amplified realness'

Full article from Dazed Digital here

Image sourced from dazeddigital.com

Photography Scott Trindle; Make-up Val Garland using M.A.C; Styling Emma Wyman

I really like this look created by Val Garland. What stuck out the most to me with this look was the fact that how changing one detail to the face (such as taking away the eyebrows) can completely change the way someone looks. This also catches my attention as I believe this look is a stroke of genius. I feel this as this look has been cleverly portrayed because taking such a small detail, such as freckles and amplifying them to create something very striking to look at is extremely clever and forward thinking. The element of taking away the eyebrows with the metallic's of the eyeshadow adds a futuristic feel to the look which I think compliments Mary Katrantzou's collection very well.

Halloween

Being the only Makeup and hair design student in my flat I was in charge of everyone's makeup. Here are some of the creations. 

The day of the dead

This week we have been experimenting with Halloween looks. I find halloween really fun as you can turn yourself into any character and this gives you the freedom to be as out there as you like!
In this weeks class we looked at the day of the dead and recreating looks from this. Here is my take on a look from the day of the dead.

Inspiration from our trip to London.

Whilst on our trip to London to visit the National Portrait Gallery we had the chance to do some shopping where at Illamasqua I couldn't help but notice that the looks from their new collection 'Facets Once... Enduring beauty' seemed to be very Elizabethan. I feel as though these look very modern Elizabethan.

For example this advertisement seems to be very Elizabethan inspired to me because of the lack of eyebrows the model has. The skin also seems to have a porcelain look to it and the lips are rouged like that of many Elizabethan women. However I feel that Illamasqua have put a modern twist on this look by having a slight contour on the cheeks (a big 'trend' now) and by having the hair slightly on the face as opposed to how Elizabethan women would have theirs in a style out of the face. 

Once again this advertisement feels very Elizabethan to me. This is because of the red hair up in a tall hairstyle. This also feels Elizabethan to me because of the way the cheeks have been blushed quite heavily, however once again I feel like this has a modern element to the look with the use of the smokey eye. 

Contemporary Elizabethan looks

Here is an image from Corrie Nielson's 2011 catwalk show during London Fashion Week who actually took inspiration from the Elizabethan period for her collection. To me this feels very 'New Elizabethan as the hair has been pulled back into a bun and features a head piece that reminds me of something an Elizabethan woman would wear, however not necessarily one from a high status, this because of the lack of pearls/jewellery that were worn by many wealthy woman and in particular Elizabeth 1. This also feels very 'New Elizabethan to me as the cheeks appear to be quite rosy and the lips have a slight pink tone to them, however it is not as bold as the red colour worn at that time.

(Image sourced from google images from the website http://blog.next.co.uk/day-2-on-the-catwalk/) 

Here is an image from Cara Delevingne's cover shoot for Vogue Australia. The title of the article was 'Queen Cara' and therefore I feel they have taken inspiration from Elizabethan makeup to create this look. To me this feels very 'New Elizabethan' they seem to have the element of a paler complexion but have chosen to use a deeper red, more burgundy on the lips and have kept Cara's darker eyebrows (this probably because the model is well known for her darker brows) whereas Elizabethan makeup would often feature lighter brows. This also feels 'New Elizabethan' to me due to the fact that they have chosen to keep Cara's hair in a soft wave as opposed to the tighter styles that women of the Elizabethan time period wore. 

(Image sourced from google images, from the website http://www.designscene.net/2013/09/cara-delevingne-vogue-australia-benny-horne.html)  

Here is an image from Beyonce's promotional video for her 'The Mrs. Carter World Tour'. I feel as though they have taken inspiration from the Elizabethan period to create this look as the artist is referring to herself as a 'Queen'. This feels Elizabethan to me mainly because of the red lips and hair. The hair has been styled to look similar to the curly/frizzy texture that most Elizabethan hair styles had and furthermore features a crown but that has not been placed on the top of the head but to the left hand side. I feel this may have been done to add an element of looking more young and fresh. Finally the lips have been rouged like that of the Elizabethan time period.

The art of transformation: Elizabeth through the ages.

Cate Blanchett as Elizabeth (1998)

Image sourced from google images originally from here

Jenny Shircore was the hair and makeup designer and Anita Burger was the makeup artist for this film. Here we can see that the hair line is very far back (which the actress had constantly shaved over the time period of filming even though there was a risk of it not growing back properly). Also you can see that the hair has been styled in the typical red colour associated with Queen Elizabeth and has been styled with curls to decorate the round shape on the top of the head. In terms of the makeup the eyebrows look to have been bleached, even though the actress has quite a fair skin tone anyway. Her cheeks look to have been lightly blushed and her lips look slightly rouged. The eye makeup on this version of Elizabeth also looks very minimal, Cate does not seem to be wearing any eyeliner or dark mascara, leaving the overall look to be very fresh faced and natural. This version of Elizabeth from the 1998 film feels very historic to me, I feel as though the designers have stuck to the original template from portraits of Elizabeth and have portrayed this look very well.

Flora Robson in Fire Over England (1937) and Sea Hawk. (1940)
Fire Over England                                                                

Image sourced from google images originally from here

Image sourced from google images originally from here

Flora Robson played Elizabeth twice, once in Fire Over England and again in Sea Hawk. Both of these looks I feel are very similar, the eyebrows are a similar thickness however in the look from Fire Over England they are much more rounded and look to be higher. In both of these looks the actress' original eyebrows have been hidden by being blocked out or bleached in some way. In terms of the hair both have a jewelled head piece and both have pin curls however the look from Sea Hawk looks more structured and the curls are more in place than that of the look from Fire Over England.  

The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex. (1939) 

Image sourced from google images, originally from here

Bette Davis played this version of Elizabeth and was one of Hollywood's top 10 actresses at the time. Like Cate Blanchett in 'Elizabeth 1' Bette Davis also had her hairline shaved back at least 3 inches and also had her eyebrows shaved off for this look. I always feel a sort of admiration for the actresses who are fully dedicated to the role and shave their hairline when required to. Once again, much like the other looks, Bette Davis' has been designed to have no eyebrows and minimal eye makeup. The overall styling of this look is much like the others, she is wearing a big flamboyant dress with pearls and jewels on with her hair pin curled and styled in an up do which looks to have the typical padding, decorated with the curls and pearls. This would have been quite a transformation for Bette as at this point in time, Hollywood stars favoured a tan as it was the sign of a wealthy person. However Bette Davis must have been a fan of the role as she went back to Queen Elizabeth 25 years later and played her in 'The Virgin Queen'. Perc Westmore was the makeup artist for 'The Virgin Queen' and convinced her to again to have her hairline shaved back, this was a big risk as she would have been 25 years older and the chances would be greater that her hairline would not grow back and due to having her hairline shaved back she had to wear a hat to the oscars. 

Glenda Jackson for the BBC in 'Elizabeth R' (1971)

Dawn Alock was the makeup artist.  

Image sourced from google images, originally from here

This film was made when the 1970's sepia tone came to TV. This take on Elizabeth feels quite 70's due to the straighter style of eyebrows and the blush not being in a rounded shape of colour but in more of a stripe. The lips look as though they have been made to look paler and once again the actress looks to be wearing minimal makeup on her eyes, although she does look like she is wearing a darker coloured mascara. Another thing I have noticed about this look is that the actress seems to have her natural eyebrows, they do not look like they have been shaved off and drawn on in another style, thus why this look feels quite 70's. The straightness of the ends of the eyebrows give the actress an overall fierce look which I feel embodies the personality that we have been taught that Elizabeth had. The foundation does not look that pale, compared to some takes on Elizabeth however the hair has been styled with the typical hairline (quite far back) and the pin curls are in the red colour associated with Queen Elizabeth, with a pearl to decorate and what looks to be a crown. 

Anne-Marie Duff in 'The Virgin Queen' (2005).

Image sourced from google images, originally from here

Neil Gorton was the prosthetic makeup artist and Lauge Voight sculptured the breasts and stomach for this look. Viki Bancroft and Karen Heartly Thomas were also makeup artists for this version of Elizabeth. 

There's something I really like about this take on Elizabeth, I feel it looks extremely bare faced and even though Elizabeth is conveyed as a strong and somewhat hard character, this gives a vulnerable feel to her. The complexion seems to have been made paler, and the eyebrows look to have been bleached. The actress seems to be wearing minimal eye makeup, much like the other versions of Elizabeth which I feel makes the blue of her eyes feel very intense and when looking at the image i am drawn straight to the eyes and the eyebrows. In terms of the cheeks, this look seems to have been designed to have lightly blushed cheeks and a slight of pink/red to the lips. I also like the way the hair looks in this version of Elizabeth. The curls have been placed along the hairline with pearls placed to decorate them. Once again the hair is in the red colour that Elizabeth herself had. 

Helen Mirren in 'Elizabeth 1' (2005) 

Image sourced from google images, originally from here

Fae Hammond was the makeup artist for this version of Elizabeth.

This look I feel is very similar to the other more recent versions of Elizabeth, the face has been given a pale complexion however although this was made in the same year as 'The Virgin Queen' (2005) something about this version of Elizabeth that looks a lot older in terms of the date than that of 'The Virgin Queen'. Once again the eyebrows are paler, although they do not look like they have been shaved and re designed in another shape. The lips have been tinted with a red colour, however unlike the older versions of Elizabeth, the more recent ones seem to have been lightly blushed whereas the older versions seem to have been blushed more heavily. Once again the actress seems to be wearing minimal eye makeup in terms of eye shadow and mascara and the hair has been styled in the typical red colour and with pin curls decorated with a pearl and jewel headpiece. 

What was Elizabethan Makeup?

Elizabethan makeup consisted of the desire to have a paler complexion and rosy cheeks on the skin. This was achieved by the use of a mixture of white lead and vinegar to gain paler skin and the application of cochineal to rouge the cheeks (which was expensive and therefore a sign of wealth and status as only the wealthy could afford to have this makeup) The lead used in the foundation was also poisonous which is thought to be why Elizabeth acquired rotting teeth through the years yet because she wore this look, so did many wealthy women as she was an icon. Furthermore a paler complexion was desired by the wealthy as poorer women were expected to work outside in the sun and therefore would have a darker skin tone to that of the high class. Kohl was applied to the eyes to darken the lashes which like cochineal was imported from the Middle East during the Elizabethan period.

To achieve the red hair that Elizabeth had women would dye their hair using a mixture of saffron, cumin seed celadine and oil. Wigs and hairpieces in the red colour were also widely used and Elizabeth herself had a wide range of wigs and hairpieces due to having alopecia. 

Here I have found a short video explaining the ingredients and application of makeup during the Elizabethan period.

Experimenting with face charts.

During this weeks lesson we were experimenting with getting used to using face charts when we design our work. Face charts are an extremely important factor when designing a look as you are able to show the make up artists a clear image of what you would like them to produce and what products you have used and are wanting them to use. Here is the outcome of my face chart. 

I feel this looks ok, however I think that my drawing skills need improving and the overall face could have been made to look a little more life like, however I think that I have done well for my first attempt at a face chart. 

Symbolism in todays society.

Much like the portraits of Elizabeth that I have looked at there is a range of symbolism in todays society. These include the use of luxurious engagement rings, flash cars and luxurious jewellery and clothing that represent wealth. A good example of this would be from the Kardashian/ Jenner family who frequently document on various social media sites the expensive items that dominate their wardrobe and life, symbolising their wealth.

Flash cars. 

Expensive, luxurious jewellery. 

Pictures that feature their luxurious homes and home life. 

(All images sourced from google images, originally from http://instagram.com/kimkardashian, http://instagram.com/khloekardashian, http://instagram.com/kyliejenner, http://instagram.com/kourtneykardash)


As you can tell the definition of 'ideal beauty' in todays society is very different to that of the Elizabethan period. For example today a main feature of being 'beautiful' features extenuated curves such as that of Kim Kardashian, Beyonce and Iggy Azalea. 

Image sourced from hiphopstan.com

Image sourced from atrl.net

Image sourced from mydailynews.com

Image sourced from newscelebgossip.com 

It is clear to see the difference between the pale complexion and red hair that was deemed beautiful during the Elizabethan period, compared to that of today. However it is important to remember that during the Elizabethan period there was only one icon that defined what the public saw as beautiful yet in todays society there is a range of different variables that contribute to what each individual recognises as beauty. 

My Symbolic Portrait.

Here is my symbolic self portrait. As you can see I have my makeup kit next to me and just above it is my 'inspiration wall'. This is where I have gathered images and quotes and placed them on my pin board. This symbolises where I want to go and what I would like to do with my life. Predominantly on this wall are images of all the Countries that I would like to visit, I strongly feel there is so much that I would like to see of the world and just how big the world is fascinates me. Also included on this wall are images from various fashion shows that I have been inspired by and like the look of as well as various covers of magazines such as ELLE and Vogue as in an ideal world this is where I would like my career to be. Also included in this image are my lights and pictures from home. Moving here has been a big step and sometimes I still feel a bit young for it, however these pictures remind my of how proud my family are that I'm independent and doing something I love. 

Symbolism in Elizabethan Portraiture

During her reign, many portraits were painted of Elizabeth 1 and each one holds a vast amount of symbolism throughout them. Her understanding of her image and self marketing to the public lead to a propaganda campaign and the creation of the 'cult of Elizabeth', she was an icon and the loyalty of the people in buying into this image that she created throughout the symbolism of her portraits lead her popularity to grow. This is clear from many portraits being miniature so that they could be given to people and worn as jewellery such as necklaces. Many of the portraits that Elizabeth had painted were destroyed as she didn't like them or they did not fit the image that she had created.

What did Elizabeth 1 actually look like?
Elizabeth 1 was 5'4, making her taller than most women and the average mans height during that time, this itself symbolic of her power and status. Her skin was blemished through having small pox and burned by the use of lead oxide makeup. Her teeth were black through decay (thought to be why she did not smile in portraits) which actually became a trend, again proving her iconic status, also causing her to have halitosis.
However, in many portraits you can not tell Elizabeth's age, as we are not seeing a realistic version of her but simply a rendition and the artists interpretation.

The main symbolic features that portraits of Elizabeth include are a symbolism of chastity and purity. This has been portrayed in two different ways in her portraits. For example in portraits where Elizabeth has her hair loose and styled down symbolises her unmarried status and therefore her virginity and where her hair has been styled up and out of her face which symbolises her being 'married to England' this was something the public bought into 100%, they liked the idea of her being available and then not available but dedicated to ruling England.


The Armada Portrait. Unknown English artist, previously attributed to George Gower. C.1588. 

This portrait was painted after beating the Spanish Armada and symbolises Elizabeth's power. Although Elizabeth is wearing a head dress the portrait shows a crown to the left hand side of her, which again represents her status. The fact that Elizabeth is holding the globe with her hand over America, Spain's source of gold could symbolise her future intentions as England had just beaten the Spanish Armada. Behind Elizabeth there are painting of English and Spanish ships, the English ships are sailing fine whereas the Spanish ships are crashing into the rocks. This symbolises a sense of mocking towards Spain. Her dress is covered in pearls and bows which symbolise her purity whilst the dress is black which symbolises her wealth as black fabric was expensive to produce. This applies to the red in the background as whilst being expensive to produce, it also needed cochineal to achieve the colour, which is sourced in Spain, this again symbolising her mocking of the Spanish.


The Rainbow Portrait by Isaac Oliver C.1600

This portrait is one of the most popular paintings of Elizabeth 1. It is elaborate and inventive as you can not tell her age, she is in her late 60's in this portrait yet you can not tell which symbolises that she is seen as never ageing and immortal. Her gown is embroided with English wild flowers and eyes and ears which symbolise that she sees and hears everything. This portrait is filled with symbolism, the jewelled serpent featured on Elizabeth's dress symbolises wisdom and the fact that the serpent is holding a ruby in it's mouth represents the fact that her wisdom controls her emotions. The pose that Elizabeth has adopted in this portrait is a virgin from English literature again symbolising her virginity. This is supported by her head dress featuring pearls and ruby's, the pearls represent chastity and purity while the ruby's represent her heart and passion. The crown that Elizabeth is wearing features a crescent  shaped jewel which symbolises the goddess of the moon. Elizabeth is holding a rainbow in her right hand which represents peace and features a latin enscription that states 'there is no rainbow without rain'  which symbolises that her wisdom holds peace and prosperity.


The Pelican Portrait. Nicholas Hilliard C. 1575

 This portrait of Elizabeth also features many devices to present messages to the audience. Firstly the portrait features the tudor rose. This I believe holds a deep message as this symbolises Elizabeth's right to the throne and the 'Tudor dynasty' as she is seen as the 'bastard Queen' due to her Mother. This feature also holds religious symbolism as it represents the virgin Mary therefore Elizabeth is representing herself as the successor of virgin Mary. Much like the other portraits, this one features pearls to symbolise chastity and virginity. The use of black, white, red and gold symbolise wealth and expense. Bright colours were dyed with cochineal and were expensive to produce, again symbolising the wealthy people of a high status. The Queen is also wearing cherries in her ears, again symbolising her virginity.However the main symbolism in this painting is the use of the pelican emblem which features many associations that Elizabeth took on. For example the emblem symbolises love as it was a myth that Mother pelicans would pluck their breasts to feed their starving young and would die in the process, this symbolises the Queen's undying love for England. The pelican emblem holds medieval connotations and Christ's sacrifice of dying on the cross, which again symbolises the fact that Elizabeth would do anything for her country.

The Phoenix Portrait. Nicholas Hilliard

This portrait was again painted by Nicholas Hilliard, one of Elizabeth's favourite artists and much like any other portrait features a range of symbolism throughout. Firstly the phoenix is a mythological bird that never dies but lives 500 years and is then reborn. This symbolises resurrection, endurance and eternal life. Also there is only one phoenix at a time which symbolises Elizabeth's originality and uniqueness. Her dress is again covered in pearls, symbolising purity and features black and gold, a symbol of being of high status and wealth.

The Ermine Portrait. Nicholas Hilliard

This portrait's symbolism is mainly the animal on Elizabeth's right arm and the sword resting just next to  her. The animal is a symbol of majesty, royalty and purity and the sword is the Three Brothers Sewel which symbolises fate and peacefully ruling but being prepared to defend the realm. Finally once again Elizabeth's dress is black and gold, a symbolism of wealth and high status. 

The Sieve Portrait C.1583

This is yet another portrait that holds many examples of symbolism. For instance the sieve that Elizabeth is holding in her right hand is a symbol of purity and virginity, something that she portrays in every portrait of herself. This is yet another way that she has chosen to glorify her virginity and also associates England with a Roman tribute. 

initial face chart designs

Here is an initial face chart that I have produced. I liked this but now looking at it again don't think I will use it. This design includes blocked out eyebrows, white eyelashes and a smokey eye with pink cheeks and lips. In terms of the base I chose to use the Illamasqua skin base. I don't think I will use this design as I don't think it fulfils the brief in the best way and therefore I think I could be more experimental with the application of the colours in the design.

Colour Theory

Colour theory

Primary colours: red, yellow, blue.

Secondary colours: mixture of each colours e.g. blue and yellow create green.

Analogous colours are colours of a similar shade

Complimentary colours are opposite/contrasting colours.

Achromatic colours are colours on the grey scale for example black,greys and white. 

Neutral colours are beiges for example to colour of foundations.

Chromatic refers to the actual colour.

Monochromatic are the dark shade to the light shade of the same colour.

Cool shades are colours with a grey/blue undertone and warm shades and colours with a red/sienna undertone.

Colour context refers to how the colours are working in relation to each other. Do they compliment each other?

Colour harmony refers to a look that is visually appealing with the colours being balanced.

Ways in which colour might be described would be: light, dark, cool, warm, clear, and matte.

Combining colours itself is an art. We rely on our sensitivity to colour and how colours work together to create a look.

Experimenting with face charts using the colour theory.

This week we have been learning about colour theory and face charts. Here are some face charts that are following the rules of the colour theory. the first face chart is the chromatic colour wheel (black to white) and the next face chart is following the monochromatic colour wheel (all different shades of pink)